Joined: Apr 17, 2005 Posts: 2680 Location: Vancouver Island
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 12:13 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
Yep I noticed that I got about 80% of my transplanted stuff this year but the direct seeded have been horrible. 1 carrot out of 4 3ft rows, 0 parsnips out of 4 3ft rows, maybe 1 cucumber (it's hard to tell if it's one or not at the tiny stage it's in now) The rest vanished overnight after hitting 1/2" I blame slugs. 1 of 6 plantings for lettuce have tiny seedlings and they're a month late now that we're into cooking hot summer.
I did notice that my direct planted into my homemade earthbox worked pretty good. 1/2 the spinach came up, all of the onions from seed came up and the radish loved it. With the new greenhouse I'll be starting everything in trays and transplanting. I'll have to look into how to make soil blocks I guess _________________ shame on us, doomed from the start
god have mercy on our dirty little hearts
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 7:29 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
This is one of my main issues... gardening I mean. I eventually will want to set one up in the immediate future. But I know nothing about it! not a single thing, really. What are some good books that can teach me how to set one up in no time, a source that can really be helpful! Also I don't know where to get seeds, or anything.
Joined: Apr 28, 2006 Posts: 2897 Location: East Texas
Posted: Tue Jun 27, 2006 8:57 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
Before you go buy books, visit your local library, they have more gardening books than you could shake a stick at.
Gardening is very climate specific; particularly about what times you plant what. Some plants need lots of warmth, some will urp on you if they get to hot. Starting in July might be a difficult time to plant something, but you could have some success by starting seeds indoors. I used those little plastic bathroom cups, and plant out in the garden after they've gotten a head start, someone suggested a week or so after they come up.
John Jeavon's "How to Grow More Vegetables.." would be a good book to check out.
Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 6:18 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
Gardening is one of those things that really just takes practice, I think, because there are so many variables (soil in your area, bugs in your area, climate,etc...) s, give yourself a few years to learn what works in your area. Last year, for example, I tried broccali raab, and it came up and I was just ready to pick, and these green caterpillers came out of nowhere and ate every stalk! AAAARGHH! I talked to some local experienced gardeners in our area, and she suggested brussel sprouts, as she's had great success with them after having a similar experience with the raab. We'll see how my sprouts do this year, and then I'll know for next year what to plant in that catagory.
There was a PO meeting in Cleveland that I attended the other day, and someone made a flip comment about how easy it is to grow veg and put up foods. I suggseted that is wasn't so easy, and that he should try it some time. He rethought and said that it might not be so easy as it looks.
One other person at this meeting suggested that we who can and preserve and grow what we can, should get an energy tax credit for the amount of fuel we are not using to transport food to our homes. I thought that was a great idea!
Posted: Fri Jun 30, 2006 9:06 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
rwwff wrote:
I germinated 24 corn plants inside, and planted 24 seeds outside. Soil is very warm, adequate moisture, very few of the outside planted seeds made it, and those that did are puny. The 24 inside seeds sent up 23 very strong seedlings, which I transplated about 10 days later. They are growing strong, though a couple got beat up by recent stormy weather.
You might want to check your soil for wireworms, that is the effect they have on corn gemination. I plant about 1/4 acre of corn every year doubling or tripling the number of seeds I plan to compensate then thin to 10 inches.
Joined: Apr 17, 2005 Posts: 2680 Location: Vancouver Island
Posted: Thu Jul 06, 2006 5:30 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
A quick question about fertilizers. Does regular non organic fertilizer damage the soil structure at all?
My growth this year is crap and I'll be doing a lot to the soil this winter to prep for next summer. I've started using a fertilizer to see if I can get any decent results from this years crops.
I know that pesticides and herbicides kill way more then intended and are therefore bad but does fertilizer actually hurt?
I'm also aware that It's not a permanent solution _________________ shame on us, doomed from the start
god have mercy on our dirty little hearts
Joined: Apr 28, 2006 Posts: 2897 Location: East Texas
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 12:55 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
Blake wrote:
rwwff wrote:
I germinated 24 corn plants inside, and planted 24 seeds outside. Soil is very warm, adequate moisture, very few of the outside planted seeds made it, and those that did are puny. The 24 inside seeds sent up 23 very strong seedlings, which I transplated about 10 days later. They are growing strong, though a couple got beat up by recent stormy weather.
You might want to check your soil for wireworms, that is the effect they have on corn gemination. I plant about 1/4 acre of corn every year doubling or tripling the number of seeds I plant to compensate then thin to 10 inches.
Thanks for the info. I am basically pursuing this plan and experiment from the point of view that either after what folks would term "retirement" or after an oil crash I have plenty of good land and plenty of time, but I want to try and absolutely minimize economic inputs; ie, backwards of the modern practice I know. I *really* like the results I'm getting this year from germinating in a protected environment; all 23 of those corn stalks are growing strong; about 40 days since they were planted out, their bases are thickening well, and they're about 30" tall.
It could be that the seeds I've gotten from Seed Savers this year are simply outperforming the NameBrand packs from Home Depot. I got some miniature pumpkin seeds a little while ago from HD and did the inside germination trick again, but the results weren't near as good. Could just be the plant is naturally a weak mutant, but I got six really strong plants out of 20 seeds. I only needed six, so that was ok, but it was disappointing too. [I want mini-pumpkins fruiting outdoors at the end of October for obvious reasons....]
Corn question for you... to get reasonable pollination, whats the smallest square of corn I can plant? On the real farm, I'd love to use a set of 20ft x 20ft squares planted with transplants.. [feel free to think the word psychopath here].. A kinda upsized biointesive.... John Jeavons book seems to suggest a 5ft x 5ft square (like my experimental block) should be able to produce corn, I have my doubts, but I suppose I'll know in another couple months....
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:29 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
rwwff wrote:
Corn question for you... to get reasonable pollination, whats the smallest square of corn I can plant? On the real farm, I'd love to use a set of 20ft x 20ft squares planted with transplants.. [feel free to think the word psychopath here].. A kinda upsized biointesive.... John Jeavons book seems to suggest a 5ft x 5ft square (like my experimental block) should be able to produce corn, I have my doubts, but I suppose I'll know in another couple months....
I've planted blocks of corn as small as 5'X5' with no problems. With a very small number of stalks you can cut a couple of the tassels and dust the silk with them by hand to ensure pollination.
I've been trying to move to open pollinated varieties myself for the past 3 years. I planted “Yellow Bantum” this year and it looks promising, it might even out-perform my standard Hybrid. I’ve found that heirloom seeds by and large have less vigor. My goal for the entire garden is to grow only from seeds and cutting I’ve saved from year to year. Good Luck, and if you have a particularly successful heirloom corn, I’d like to hear about it.
Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 6375 Location: My Grandkids' Farm
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:16 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
ca2devri wrote:
I've found the same thing. I use soil-blockers which create small to medium size soil blocks without containers that allow you to transplant without disturbing roots as much.
I tried a sol blocker last year for the first time Chris, and got good results.
What size block maker do you use and what is your soil recipe? _________________ Make a plan and work it:
Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 6375 Location: My Grandkids' Farm
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 7:20 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
I should add that for peppers, tomatoes, cukes, etc. I use a small blocker to start seeds on a propagation mat and then pot them in 6-packs to reach transplant size. That way I can get many more seeds germinated at one time.
I was wondering about the larger blockers that are made to receive the little blocks… _________________ Make a plan and work it:
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 8:41 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
Pops wrote:
ca2devri wrote:
I've found the same thing. I use soil-blockers which create small to medium size soil blocks without containers that allow you to transplant without disturbing roots as much.
I tried a sol blocker last year for the first time Chris, and got good results.
What size block maker do you use and what is your soil recipe?
I've been using the medium size (2") blocker for several years. I finally broke down and bought the big 4" one (almost $100!) and the smallest one (3/4", only $23).
I found the 4" block was wonderful for tomatoes. I started them in 2" blocks, then moved them to 4" blocks when they had a few leaves. I've never had "seedlings" as good as I've had this year. When I planted them out they were 2 feet tall and very strong.
I started by using only bagged potting soil. I find sometimes it has too many sticks in it, but for the most part it works. Now that I am using the 4" blocker, I need a lot more soil. I am starting to use a home-made recipe for the first time (from Eliot Coleman's book - New Organic Grower). I am transplanting fall brassicas (broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, etc) into the 4" blocks this weekend. There's nowhere for them to go in the garden right now until some potatoes and alliums are harvested. The large blocks will let them grow freely for a bit longer until I can make room for them.
The small 3/4" blocks have been really good for herbs and leaf crops (spinach and lettuces). Saves me a lot of time thinning and gives much more consistant results.
The benefit of having larger blocks to recieve the smaller blocks is also way less time spent transplanting (once you get good at making the blocks).
One other new thing I tried this year that seems to be working very well is the "florida weave" for tomotoes. I've always been frustrated by the disorder of my tomatoe plants by the end of the summer. With this method you put large stakes every two plants and weave twine in and out of the posts. As the plants grow you add more twine. The plants and tomatoes hang off the twine and you have a much neater setup. I'll get some pictures of it so you can see.
Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 6375 Location: My Grandkids' Farm
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 9:24 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
Thanks Chris, I haven’t spoken with anyone who has used them - Coleman is where I first read about them too.
The little one is also what I have, couldn’t justify the $100 on something I hadn’t tried.
How do you go about moving the plants? I used some sheet vinyl (like they sell here for dairy barn walls etc) cut into squares about 12” on a side that sit ok on my chicken wire benches to start, and like I said plant them out in 6-packs to grow. I’m not sure about how to move the bigger blocks outside without damage.
I tried the Florida Weave as you call it last year for the first time as I had many more plants than cages – I have always used homemade field-wire cages. It worked OK but I didn’t use the twine that degrades quickly and it was a mess to clean up in the fall.
A neighbor out here whos folks had a truck garden business in the way-back, showed me how to place T-posts every ten feet or so, run smooth fence wire over the tops (anchored to the ground at each end) and then run twine over the wire, down to the base of the plant then back up and over the wire to the next plant. You prune the tomatoes to two main stems and wrap the twine a couple times around each stem.
That worked pretty well on everything but the Brandywines - whose picture should be in the dictionary under Indeterminate! They are in cages this year! _________________ Make a plan and work it:
Joined: Apr 28, 2006 Posts: 2897 Location: East Texas
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:04 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
A sustainable substitute for tomatoe cages that folks couild think about if they were so inclined: teepees of 8-10ft, thumb+ sized bamboo. Chinese use them to run pollbeans and the like. On the other hand, i'm a heretic, I don't pot tomatos, I don't stake tomatos, and I don't cage tomatos. I usually just throw a mess of tomatos seeds at an area, rake, then thin what comes up. They always seem to produce more tomatos that I want to eat. If I were to try canning tomato sauce, I might have to do something, but as it is now, its cheaper to buy a can of tomato sauce than it is to buy the canning jar.
I haven't really investigated growing bamboo yet, so more than that I do not know, but I sure am curious after having seen them.
Joined: Apr 03, 2004 Posts: 6375 Location: My Grandkids' Farm
Posted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 10:23 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General
I used to make stakes from mulberry branches – those trees grow like weeds – pigs love the fruit and it makes passable wine if one was to be hard up.
The only thing to be careful of when sticking them in the ground green is they take root very easily. In fact I already have several Ive rooted from the 2 I bought out here
I made a big teepee for the kids to play in once from mulberry branches – thick ones for the uprights and thin ones woven around it horizontally every 2’ or so, I planted potato vine around it (the flower kind). I suppose one could just as easily make tomato cages the same way. _________________ Make a plan and work it:
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