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Peakoil.com :: View topic - [Food] Production – Gardening, General
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[Food] Production – Gardening, General
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undertaker
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 6:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

It's nice to frame a raised bed, but I only managed to frame one small one. The rest are mounded and they do just fine.

I am building raised beds on top of virgin clay, with scraggly grass growing on it. I gathered hundreds of bags of leaves from the neighbors, and I get horse manure from a horse farm.

When I have a load of horse manure, I open bags of leaves and dump them into high, fluffy piles, then I shovel horse manure off the truck and on top of the fluffy piles of leaves to "seal them up," basically so they don't blow away. So it's about 80% leaves and 20% horse manure.

It's a lot less work up front, and I just have to wait a couple years to have perfect soil. The first year, when the horse manure is still fresh and the leaves aren't rotted yet, I grow cucurbits like cukes, squash and melons. After the first year, it's rotted into really nice, almost ideal, soil.

I was told by a soil scientist not to lime, just let it go through it's cycle of thermophilic decomposition and it will naturally come to a normal ph.

So yeah, it's just mounded. It's important to have a truck and a free source of horse manure, and idiotic neighbors who rake and bag their leaves and leave them by the road, but that's it.
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Heineken
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 8:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Yes, you can just heap material on the ground and get a raised bed, but the edges will constantly erode and sag, so you'd need a considerably larger bed for the same-sized crop---and then have to try to keep your feet off the soil. Since I'll be using mine for strawberries, which are delicate and require a lot of hand work (and bending over), it's nice to have the "frames," which help one control the whole operation and give a nice point of attachment for insect barriers, insulating blankets, my rear end, etc.

Also, mine create a nice "landscaping" look, and they're easy for me to build since my supply of suitable pine trees is large.

(Members, please see preceding page for a link to a picture of my new raised beds.)
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Loki
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:00 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Heineken wrote:
Please click on the link below to see a pic of my raised beds. (Again, they're each about 10 feet long by 5 feet wide.)


http://mywebpage.netscape.com/GlaQn/Strawberry+beds.jpg

Nice Heineken. Are you doing square-foot-gardening, or just planting as you see fit?

Anyone have any idea if using scrap lumber for raised beds is a good idea? I assume most lumber is treated with creosote and the like. There's a lumber yard near where I live that leaves its scrap out for whoever wants it---I was thinking about using their scrap to make some 4x4 beds to experiment with square-foot-gardening. Maybe I'd be better off buying a chainsaw, getting a firewood permit, and following Heineken's example. Laughing
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Heineken
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Why use a chainsaw when you've got all those cannons, Loki? Very Happy

Blammo!

I'll be using the beds for everbearing strawberries, about one plant per square foot. (A total of about 80 strawberry plants.)

I'll cover the entire surface of the prepared soil with black, water-permeable sheeting (Vispore) to exclude most weeds. Then I'll cut an X in every square foot with a utility knife and plant a strawberry plant in each X. Then it's a matter of pinching off all flowers until July 1 and all runners indefinitely (until it's time to renovate the plots, after two or three years). Fertilize after the plants get established and then again in late summer (I think---have to check), deal with bugs, keep moist, and (hopefully) enjoy plenty of strawberries that put the supermarket variety to shame.

Along with the weed barrier that goes over the soil, I also have a barrier that lets in sunlight but excludes insects, that I can lay over the beds during the worst part of the Japanese beetle season. I'll leave them off until 10:00 a.m. or so (when the Japanese beetle gets limbered up enough to start marauding) so that bees can pollinate the strawberries, then put them back on until the following early morning (to exclude larger predators). That's the plan, Loki. I'm a determined man---determined to get my berries!
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Loki
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 11:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Heineken wrote:
Why use a chainsaw when you've got all those cannons, Loki? Very Happy

Blammo!

I'll be using the beds for everbearing strawberries, about one plant per square foot. (A total of about 80 strawberry plants.)

I'll cover the entire surface of the prepared soil with black, water-permeable sheeting (Vispore) to exclude most weeds. Then I'll cut an X in every square foot with a utility knife and plant a strawberry plant in each X. Then it's a matter of pinching off all flowers until July 1 and all runners indefinitely (until it's time to renovate the plots, after two or three years). Fertilize after the plants get established and then again in late summer (I think---have to check), deal with bugs, keep moist, and (hopefully) enjoy plenty of strawberries that put the supermarket variety to shame.

Along with the weed barrier that goes over the soil, I also have a barrier that lets in sunlight but excludes insects, that I can lay over the beds during the worst part of the Japanese beetle season. I'll leave them off until 10:00 a.m. or so (when the Japanese beetle gets limbered up enough to start marauding) so that bees can pollinate the strawberries, then put them back on until the following early morning (to exclude larger predators). That's the plan, Loki. I'm a determined man---determined to get my berries!

Well, we've got awfully big trees here in Oregon, and ammo is going up in price. So I think a chainsaw would be more cost effective. But I did just buy a Gransfors Bruks forest axe and I do need the exercise. All I've done with the damn thing so far is cut a chunk out of my knee. Those things are sharp! Laughing

Sounds like you have a plan. I've been growing strawberries in containers for the last 3-4 years. They've been doing pretty well with minimal attention, though this last year they decided they wanted to spend their energy sending out runners rather than producing berries. That's OK---I just planted the runners in a new pot. Hopefully next year I'll have twice as many strawberries! All I need to do is figure out how to stress them so they produce berries rather than more runners.
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frankthetank
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 12:36 am    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I also have strawberries in containers. Last year i picked very little, but had plenty of runners. I think i got like one ripe one a day for maybe two weeks. Oh well, i don't like any other strawberry (store bought ones suck and the frozen are bad too). I'll probably up production when i get some more boxes made.

Those beds are going to last a 1000 years with your setup! You could build a cabin out of those trees Smile
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Heineken
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2006 8:43 am    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Loki and Frank: You have to pinch off the runners as they form. Otherwise most of the energy of the strawberry plant goes into making runners and not berries. That's why you haven't gotten many berries. Fertilization, twice a year, is also important.

What you want are really big plants with no runners and plenty of room around each plant (at least one square foot per plant). Full sun, of course, although they can take some afternoon shade. And steady water so that they never dry out, but don't drown them. Drip irrigation is ideal so that leaves don't get wet (potentially spreading disease); or just water at the base of each plant and not over the leaves.

Also, with new plants, pinch off all the flowers that form up until July 1. That will help the plants get larger and more able to produce decent fruit later in the year and in following years.

A final tip---work some sand into the soil. That helps the soil drain well, avoiding the root diseases that may otherwise strike.
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WildRose
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:24 am    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Heineken wrote:
Also, with new plants, pinch off all the flowers that form up until July 1. That will help the plants get larger and more able to produce decent fruit later in the year and in following years.


Heineken, that July 1st date - is that dependent on the climate where you are living? For example, if you're planting strawberries in a more northern climate with a shorter growing season, where you may not put plants in the ground until mid-May to end-of-May, would you then adjust the date for pinching the flowers off somehow?

I'm hoping that strawberries will grow well for me in central Alberta. I can consult some local horticulturalists as well, but I was just wondering if you knew - might help some other members in more northern areas also.
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Heineken
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 7:30 am    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I don't know, WildRose. That guideline appears to be a general one that may indeed have to be modified for different climates, esp. an extreme one like yours. I'm sure you can get more information from your Canadian equivalent of our "extension" services.

I should note that the guidelines I presented apply (as far as I know) only to everbearing (daylength-neutral) strawberries, the type I prefer. There is another type that bears all at once and then is done for the year.
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dogf
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 11:30 am    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Question....

I am currently renting, waiting for the farms prices to fall another 25%. So I've got myself into this house with a 3 car garage/driveway in the suburbs.
While the lot is considered by the owner to be a premium lot, the back yard is not usable at all as the slope is too steep to almost walk on. Great view but that's it.

Can I build a raised bed on top of the black tar driveway? I only use 1 lane of the 3.
Will the black tar become too hot to grow anything? I am about 1 hours drive north of Toronto.

TIA
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WildRose
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 12:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Thanks for your reply, Heineken. I will consult some local gardeners, perhaps pick up Lois Hole's gardening book.

BTW, your raised beds look really good. A friend of mine built some last spring and they worked out really well, kept the slugs out of her plants, too. I'm planning on building some this coming spring.
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UrbanFool
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 28, 2006 1:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I was just getting ready to start planning changes for the garden this coming year, and wouldn't you know --the wind kicked up and if there's one thing I hate, it's trying to do anything outdoors in the wind.

Anyway, I was thinking about toying around with tires. These are turned inside out and theoretically don't look like tires, so I figured I'd give this a go http://survivalplus.com/foods/page0003.htm --for part of the garden anyway.

Kelly
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pea-jay
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:48 am    Post subject: Re: Building Raised Beds on the Cheap Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

dogf wrote:
Question....

I am currently renting, waiting for the farms prices to fall another 25%. So I've got myself into this house with a 3 car garage/driveway in the suburbs.
While the lot is considered by the owner to be a premium lot, the back yard is not usable at all as the slope is too steep to almost walk on. Great view but that's it.

Can I build a raised bed on top of the black tar driveway? I only use 1 lane of the 3.
Will the black tar become too hot to grow anything? I am about 1 hours drive north of Toronto.

TIA


I would think you could, but you would need some serious elevation and extra close attention if you wanted your crops to be sucessful. SInce you are renting i doubt that the land lord would appreciate the driveway being torn up. So your bed would have to have some serious elevation, more than 12" of depth for crops to be sucessful, with careful attention to watering so that the plants dont dry up and perhaps use of screens to shade the growing area. Also the square foot gardening has a section on container gardening for those who wish to garden on roof tops or balconies. The point is that it is possible, though it will require work and ingenuity on your part.

As for doing raised beds on the cheap I am utilizing the remnant planks of my old wood fence to frame a few of the beds. Not pretty, but effective.
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FilmShack
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 10:30 am    Post subject: Re: [Food] Production – Gardening, General Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

DogF: Yes you can! Put at least six inches of gravel in the bottom of your bed(Bed should be at least twenty inches tall). If the soil is rich in organic matter the plants will keep their roots nearer to the surface. You have to water that system often however, so put it near a gutter and downspout and you'll be good to go!

Patti
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 29, 2007 11:08 am    Post subject: Re: Seeds Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

atari2601 wrote:
Not sure if anyone's still monitoring this old thread, but I was curious how Strider3700's hybrid seed planting experiment turned out...if he gave it another go in 2006.

This spring (2006) I bought a pack of mixed hybrid pepper seed from Gurney's. The variety and yield was nothing short of amazing, even with minimal fertilizer use. We had our first killing freeze just last week so I've saved seed from the last crop of peppers hastily gathered as the temperature dropped. Even knowing hybrid seed will not produce the same exact plants next year I've just got to try anyway.

Has anyone else had luck de-hybridizing seed. Did it just take one year, or should I plan on making this a decadal project?


Hmm I'm a couple of months late in answering this. Anyways I did do some hybrid seeds in 2006 but no peppers this year. This year I specifically did spagetti and butter squash as well as pumpkins. It turns out my garlic that I planted in 2005 came back as well. In the end I got spagetti squash but they only got to about 1/2 the size of a commercial one. That could be my environment or the seed. I got 1 apple sized pumpkin. What I noticed was although the plants got large and had lots and lots of flowers they where 90% male. On 3 spagetti squash plants I think I only had 4 female flowers(which I manually pollinated) I had 50% of them fail to do much. Same went for the pumpkin.

This year I'll be buying all of my seeds instead. We're getting too close to needing this food for me to be screwing around over $5 worth of seeds.
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