Like the illusion of Wall Street, with its vast and powerful investment banks, now shuttered, China too is an illusion perpetuated by the Globalists that gave us the 15,000 mile Caesar salad, poisoned cat food and lead based paint on babies' pacifiers. Like the illusion that money would come from thin air to always push housing prices higher, China has spent a generation pursuing its illusion. Pursuing an unattainable dream to be like the West, while 6000 years of its carefully shepherded top soil blows into the sea.
Joined: Jul 29, 2005 Posts: 252 Location: Show-Me State
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 4:07 pm Post subject: Re: Sick tart cherry tree
Good day from Pheba, from the farm: How much rain have you had this summer? We have had more rain this spring than in the last 15 years. I raise roses, and they have been decimated with blackspot, a fungal infection.
Your leaf looks just like blackspot, I did not know cherry trees got blackspot, but it is worth investigating.
Here is what you can do to help if it is blackspot:
Cornell University recipe for blackspot.
1 gallon water in a sprayer.
Add to this,
1 heaping tablespoon of baking soda,
1 small squirt dish soap,
1 tablespoon of horticultural oil (kitchen oil will do in a pinch. Do not use motor oil of any kind!)
Mix and shake well. Spray on tree once each week.
Clean up all fallen leaves. They contain the fungus and are giving off spores.
Remove old mulch from around tree, and spread fresh mulch.
Spray mulch with cornell recipe also.
Hope this helps. helped roses a bit, but not much. They are so bad this year I have all but given up.
I ordered a fresh truckload of mulch, but have not been able to apply it yet because I sprained my ankle.
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 4:33 pm Post subject: Re: Sick tart cherry tree
I'm looking at that little track across the leaf and thinking it looks like what I found on my cherry leaves, the cherry slug? They look like tiny leeches and are larva of glossy black sawfly.
I hosed them off but they will climb back up. Got to tape the trunks. _________________ ree rah rip ram. sunofabitch godamn. hidey didey christ almighty. rah rah crap
Joined: Sep 16, 2004 Posts: 4901 Location: Southwest WI
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 5:03 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
I have mildew on my sour cherry tree (Meteor). I wonder if it spread from my lilacs that get it EVERY year. We've also been really wet here... _________________ Clothing should be optional.
Posted: Sun Jul 20, 2008 11:24 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Been really wet here.
You look to have a virus and a leafminer. _________________ Massive Human Dieoff must occur as a result of Peak Oil. Many more than half will die. It will occur everywhere, including where you live. If you fail to recognize this, then your odds of living move toward the "going to die" group.
Posted: Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:45 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Hi all,
I'm working on my garden but in addition I would like to add a nut tree to my property.
I am looking in catalogs for possible trees but I can't seem to find anything that would be good for a beginner.
I'm pretty good with vegetables but I've never planted a nut tree before.
I am in Ohio in planting zone 6. Any suggestions? thanks!
Joined: Sep 14, 2004 Posts: 6612 Location: Rural Virginia
Posted: Thu Jul 24, 2008 7:36 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Heartandseoul, I have the perfect recommendation for you: heartnut trees, aka Japanese walnuts. They should do beautifully in Ohio, which is great nut-tree country. I have four of them myself here in the less nut-friendly land of central Virginia, and they're doing amazingly well.
They don't need a lot of special care. Protect the seedling from animals with a circular welded-wire cage. Don't fertilize the seedling. Starting the spring of the second year, provide a small handful of fertilizer distributed in a circle that approximates the outermost reach of the branches. Give a little more fertilizer each spring. Keep them well-watered. Nut trees need lots of water.
And here's the perfect source. I've used them, they're conscientious and honest and have unusually good stuff. But put in your order early (this year for delivery next spring), since they tend to run out of stock:
http://www.nolinnursery.com/ _________________ "Actually, humans died out long ago."
---Abused, abandoned hunting dog
"Things have entered a stage where the only change that is possible is for things to get worse."
---Me and my brother
With dwarf, I like espalier, though it is a bit more work to establish.
With semi dwarf, I'm experimenting with both vase/open and central leader, though the latter is still a form of vase with the north side simply having a stronger, straighter, taller side trunk.
Joined: Dec 27, 2004 Posts: 13141 Location: naive idiot fantasy world
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:02 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Semi-dwarf, and I'm leaning toward the open center form. I have not shaped them yet, so need to be thinking about how I will prune them to form. _________________ "...powerdown so soft and fluffy you'll think you're living in a pillow." - jboogy
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:11 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Ludi wrote:
Semi-dwarf, and I'm leaning toward the open center form. I have not shaped them yet, so need to be thinking about how I will prune them to form.
Ludi
If you're going with semi I'd go with an open center. That way you can make your spurs more accessible. If you were going with dwarf I'd say central leader. If you have a south facing wall you can always go with espalier on a dwarf or semi.
I have all dwarfs on m26 root stock. The cultivars I have are Williams Pride which is an early apple and will store for a couple months in a root cellar. The other two I have are Liberty and Enterprise. Liberty is a mid season harvest and Enterprise is a late October. Both of these varaties will store 6 and 7 months. With these three types I have apples year round. They are also resistant to many of the diseases. You just have to make sure you plant them up to the graft as the root isn't as hardy as the graft. You also have to keep them staked for the life of the tree. You can expect 40-60 pounds off each tree at a spacing of 8 feet.
Last edited by Commanding_Heights on Wed Jul 30, 2008 2:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
Joined: Dec 27, 2004 Posts: 13141 Location: naive idiot fantasy world
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:14 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
That's great to know, CH. I have William's Pride and Enterprise of those you mention (plus several more). _________________ "...powerdown so soft and fluffy you'll think you're living in a pillow." - jboogy
Joined: Sep 14, 2004 Posts: 6612 Location: Rural Virginia
Posted: Wed Jul 30, 2008 8:35 pm Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Ludi wrote:
Apple Tree Question:
Which form do you prefer for pruning apple trees, and why?
Central leader/pyramid shape?
Vase shape/ open center?
Any advice and personal experience welcome!
It depends on the type of apple. Different apples (and sizes) lend themselves to different shapes to aim for.
I'm considering a so-called Belgian fence. This is a method for espaliering apples (multiple dwarf trees in a row). I saw a picture of a Belgian fence in Lee Reich's pruning book and was smitten. The low, two-dimensional profile would lend itself beautifully to protection against insects with tulle (which would also reduce the intensity of the sunlight). You'd just staple the tulle to the top of the "fence" on each side and let it hang down over the trees. You might consider this, Ludi. It doesn't seem terribly difficult, and you get absolute control. _________________ "Actually, humans died out long ago."
---Abused, abandoned hunting dog
"Things have entered a stage where the only change that is possible is for things to get worse."
---Me and my brother
Posted: Thu Aug 07, 2008 11:43 am Post subject: Re: [Food] Production - Trees
Looks cool.
Linky no work. _________________ Massive Human Dieoff must occur as a result of Peak Oil. Many more than half will die. It will occur everywhere, including where you live. If you fail to recognize this, then your odds of living move toward the "going to die" group.
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