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Peakoil.com :: View topic - Power Tools (for the future)
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Power Tools (for the future)
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pea-jay
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 1:06 am    Post subject: Power Tools (for the future) Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I was at home depot earlier today looking for paint. As usual I browsed past the power tools section.

What is the best tool strategy? Obviously hand tools have long lives, but if one is going to go the power tool route, what is a good way. Much of the stuff looks like the "made in china" mass produced crap, but some may be better constructed than first glance would dictate.

Assuming the battery powered tools would be a bad choice, what about electrics standard AC powered tools? What about motor burn-out? Anybody got good info on power tool lifespans?

On the other hand, how about pnumatics? They do not have individualized motors. On the other hand, I have heard the efficiency of those are lower. I could imagine it would be easier to replace a single motor (either gas or electric) on a compressor than it would be to worry each individual tool's motor. Do pnumatic tools last longer?

Regardless of the tool choice, you still have the consumable problem--drill bits break, blades wear down. If you really believe in a hard crash, ya better stock up. And speaking of tools and consumables, how easy are these things (bits and blades) as well as nails, screws, staples, etc to be made by homemade machine shops (or a small time cottage industry workshops) in towns across the country?
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k_semler
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 1:56 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Snap-On airtools are very, very, very reliable. My father still uses the tools he purchased in 1989 when he was on the line. Lifetime warrenty on all paoducts, payment plans available, delevery on site, and all tools are made in the USA.
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gg3
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 7:04 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Air tools require an air compressor, so consider the maintenance of that item, as well as its actual power source, if you are thinking about air tools. I am skeptical of air tools for this reason, though a close friend who is a high genius in all things eco-industrial, is very much in favor of air tools, so I will defer to his judgement when we actually put our hands together on the land.

Personally I have resisted mightily my coworkers' constant call for a battery-powered drill (for use on PBX installations, drilling and driving screws into plywood). The furthest I'll go in that direction is letting them use a regular corded electric drill. And what I think I'm going to do is get a manual push-drill which is actually *faster* than an electric for that specific task.

Generalization: Use hand tools wherever reasonably feasible, and save the motors for things humans can't do particularly well.

For example, use a hand saw for cutting dimensional timber. It's reasonably fast and not too tedious, and you can get an accurate cut. Use a power saw for cutting plywood because it's going to be more accurate than a hand saw in that application, and the amount of time saved is considerable. Cutting plywood with a hand saw is tedium bordering on torture:-).

Don't mix concrete by hand, aside from the "torture factor", you end up with sh*tty concrete that way. Get a mixer that is driven by a pinion and ring gear, so you can power it from a pedal-power device if necessary (some of the new enclosed-gearbox mixers are way cool but can't be adapted to alternate power sources). Two inexpensive ones that you can power with a direct chain drive from a stationary bicycle are Monarch RLX-3 (one cubic foot capacity) and RLX-6 (two cubic foot capacity), which in all other respects are really basic e.g. no bearings on the RLX-3. The gold standard for concrete mixers in the USA is Stone Construction Equipment, and the factory is also willing to make minor customizations.

Consider the "simple machines" of lever, wheel, and inclined plane. Consider tools that entail combinations of these with hand power, for example the good old crank-driven winch. With compound pulleys you can make it lift loads that are truly impressive.

Figure out ways to split tasks down to small unit-sizes that can be handled with hand tools and human power. For example, moving many small loads instead of a few big ones. You can dig a house foundation by hand if you split the excavation task into two separate tasks of picking and shoveling, and have another person running wheelbarrows out of the pit, and then rotate tasks among the crew frequently. Multiply your unit-size crew of three if needed for larger projects or faster time scales.

Design the work itself so it can be done with lower-tech tools. For example simplify the carpentry so it doesn't require cutting precise angles, and thereby won't require the precision power saw needed to cut those angles.

If you need electric power tools, figure a diesel generator into the picture, and be sure it's one that is known-good for being able to run on biodiesel.

Get hold of how-to and engineering books about the relevant trades, that were written before power tools were universal. For example the 1930s and earlier. Pay attention to the pictures too, and pick up the subtle hints about how work was organized to use the tools that were available at the time.

"Many hands make light work." We've gotten used to replacing "many hands" with "a few motors," but we're going to have to get used to "fewer and fewer" motors and more and more hands. Again.
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Pops
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 8:46 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Now we’re talking about one of my favorite things – tools!

A couple of important points or rather personal viewpoints:

First I don’t believe we’ll be seeing widespread lack of AC in the US anytime soon perhaps even a generation or more.

Second and because of point no. one, it is very important if you give a darn about your offspring, to learn old methods and acquire the tools so you may keep that knowledge alive and to pass it along.

And third, if PO becomes a reality, the biggest effect initially will be the reduction your ability to purchase quality tools – and since many commodity prices are increasing rapidly already now is the time IMO.

Aside from the obvious item such as “Yankee” type push drills, hand or shoulder brace drills, hand planes custom or multi-blade planes and handsaws of all types the most important skill to learn if you are to become proficient at hand work is sharpening. From cutting wheat to digging a posthole to carving a mantelpiece; if you don’t have a sharp tool you will either give up, ruin the work or ruin an appendage. You will never have too many stones, files (DON”T forget files!), strops, guides, saw sets and wheels.

As gg3 pointed out, read old manuals. There were many ways of providing power in the past from giving a drunk a bottle for turning a crank, to dog wheels (thing a hamster exercise wheel but bigger) to spring pole lathes. Those fortunate enough to have access to water with good head can rig a pelton wheel. BTW I started a similar thread last April here: http://www.peakoil.com/fortopic10.html (you folks in CA may be interested in the foundry in Sutter Creek operated by water power).

I also believe that cheap tools are never a bargain, knockoffs like Jet share similar parts with Delta for example but for the price of a new imitation you can always find a used (and many times “like new”) name brand. The not so obvious benefit of buying an established older model is that the design often does not change for many years and you can find “parts” unit cheap at yard sales. I don’t know how many partially disassembled Skill 77 worm drive saws I’ve seen for $1 – I have one new one maybe 5 years old, my first one with some broken parts – probably 25 years old and a couple others in various states of repair that I’ve picked up along the way.

The biggest problem with power tools I’ve found to be cords and switches. In a situation where supplies are limited, by whatever factor, a roll of good cord, cord ends and spare switches and brushes for your most important tools will make most repairs. In fact, I buy 25’ or 50’ good extension cords and a male plug to repair tools with, for the same price as a replacement cord I get as much length as I want and also a handy 10’ - 20’ extension cord.

Also a case of drying silicone spray is the best investment you can make to preserve your tools.

OK, that’s all the time I have, but I’ll be back!
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BabyPeanut
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 11:26 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Wind, Solar, Nuclear, biogas all are sources of power for electricity. I see electric holding on longer than gasoline.
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parainwater
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 10, 2005 12:08 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I highly recommend Lindsay Publications line of old books.
They have all kinds of books on tool making and early
industrialization.
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gg3
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:00 am    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Agreed, electric will hold on longer than gasoline; the musclepower applications here are primarily going to be useful for people living offgrid on limited power supplies, which is a comparatively large number of the people on this board.

Parainwater, do you have a link to Lindsay Publications?

"Give a drunk a bottle in exchange for turning a crank" ha that's funny. However IMHO you don't want people who are drunk hanging out anywhere near a construction site or other place where work could be easily disrupted by a drunk's misbehaviors. Also you don't want people who are chronically drunk hanging out around where you & yours are trying to survive.

The most efficient use of human muscles for providing power over extended periods of time, is the recumbant bicycle frame, with linear pedals that use chain over sprockets with one-way ratchets, to convert to rotary motion. Second best for efficiency but best for simplicity, is a recumbant frame with conventional rotary pedals on a sprocket; ideal case is to provide a wide range of gears for different ratios of speed and torque.
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OldSprocket
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 6:58 am    Post subject: Hand saw Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

gg3 wrote:
Use a power saw for cutting plywood because it's going to be more accurate than a hand saw in that application, and the amount of time saved is considerable. Cutting plywood with a hand saw is tedium bordering on torture:-).


I built this building before I put the solar panels up. I agree with nearly everything gg3 says.

Like any other application of hand tools, sharp tools and practice are the answer. I can now cut plywood quickly and accurately with a hand saw. I have four saws that I sharpened for different purposes. I live slower here, so perhaps my contemplative work is gg3's tedium.

For hard metal, hand tools sometimes just don't cut it. I had to drill some hard steel, and bought a cordless drill for the purpose. (I can recharge the battery from my 12-volt house current.)

Buy old hand tools. Buy the best power tools that you can afford.
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Chicagoan
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 3:15 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I am trying to get away from power tools, but sometimes I need to use them. Some things like drilling and screwing really hurt my hands when I try to use unpowered tools. Mabey I am doing it wrong. My doctor said I don't have arthritis, so I should not be having problems.
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smallpoxgirl
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 4:00 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Well...I been struggling with this one too. I don't know how long the power grids will survive. My hunch is that they will actually go pretty early in the process. As they are now constructed they are very vulnerable. North east blackout and what not. Take all those oil powered generators off line, and the grid will destabilize and crash. Maybe there will be work arounds, but it's going to mean either cutting off some people or intermittent power to people.

Anyway...whether the grid goes down soon or not, it's going out of my life within the next two years. So then they biggest question is not repairing the tools, but powering them. I kicked around the idea of building a human powered air compressor and using air tools. Also considered using rechargable tools which can be charged directly off 12v. Finally decided the most sensible and cheapest approach would be to use standard 120v tools and an inverter. I usually try to buy good name tools: Makita, DeWalt, or Milwaukee. Treated well, they will probably out live me.
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Frank
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2005 5:17 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

www.lindsaybks.com for Lindsay
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OldSprocket
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 11:53 am    Post subject: Brace Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Chicagoan wrote:
Some things like drilling and screwing really hurt my hands when I try to use unpowered tools. Mabey I am doing it wrong. My doctor said I don't have arthritis, so I should not be having problems.

I don't know if you're talking about "eggbeater" drills or brace & bit. I use both.

The common interchangeable screwdriver bits -- 1/4 inch hexagonal shafts with screwdriver tips -- fit fine in a brace. Today I was installing an oak latch on a shed door, and couldn't get enough torque with the screwdriver. So I put the bit in the brace and leaned on it. Screw went home in a jiffy.

I have two braces, 8" sweep for most stuff and 10" sweep that is awkward for common use, but gives me the leverage for a two-inch augur bit. I also have bits down to 1/4 inch for when I don't want to use an eggbeater drill.
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Pops
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 12:35 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

I watched a PBS show last night, something along the lines of “One Man’s Alaska” about a fellow living in the sticks up there. Looked like the 50’s or 60’s. That guy knew how to use a handsaw! Made my arm ache so much watching him I could barely lift my beer!

Like OldSprocket pointed out, there are (or at least used to be) many handsaw patterns; rip – ground like tiny chisels to scrape out the kerf, crosscut – ground like tiny knives to cut the fibers, bucksaws with relatively large gullets to clear green waste fast, as well as any number of sizes, styles and teeth per inch.

The same goes for bench planes. One of my few “luxury” possessions are some Lie-Nelson planes. These things are arguably the best in the world - with prices to match and certainly capable of much better work than I am. My latest – and perhaps last addition was a scrub plane. It is unusual in that the iron is convex ground and the throat is extra large for very fast stock removal. It works great and without any chatter. The record planes and the Stanleys made in the UK are perfectly serviceable and much less expensive. Most any others, including the china Stanleys are not fit to use IMO without practically remanufacturing them – but then I’m a snob.

If a person knows how to sharpen and use a few planes it is relatively easy to achieve a very true and smooth finish pretty easily. Of course a bench is a requirement of serious woodworking. I built mine years ago from Doug Fir and it has held up fine

I want to build a “carving horse” someday. It is basically a stool with a “pinch” type clamp operated by pushing with your foot. You sit on the stool holding the work in the clamp while using a drawknife.

Very old tools were generally made with babbit type bearings, large and sometimes beautiful castings and very few tiny, delicate parts. I hope to find more of these before they all turn to rust if only to have as examples for my grandchildren to learn from.
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:13 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

Quote:
I watched a PBS show last night, something along the lines of “One Man’s Alaska” about a fellow living in the sticks up there. Looked like the 50’s or 60’s. That guy knew how to use a handsaw! Made my arm ache so much watching him I could barely lift my beer!


I saw that too, He moved up there in 1968, built his own log cabin all by himself, a cache for storing his food up about 15 feet in the air and a root cellar kind of thing. He lived there for 30 years his cabin was incredible and cost him all of 40$.

What I liked about it was that the video gave you enough detail to know how to make your own cabin, wood working tools, and wooden spoons etc.

Over here on the west coast they did a pledge drive so you had the chance to buy the video, CD or book.

he made it all look so easy, it was really deceptive. But that is typical of experienced practised craftsmen.

Can anyone tell me what I need to know about sharpening. I know nothing. When would you use a stone or a strop or a file? Do I need different stones for sharpening axes and knives or saw blades?
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uNkNowN ElEmEnt
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 13, 2005 2:23 pm    Post subject: Add User to Ignore List Reply with quote

One more point I would like to make is that while I agree that we will likely still have power for some time to come, like everything else it will become more expensive. If you can save money by getting used to and practised with non-power tools; you will save money that you can use elsewhere.

We expect that things will become more expensive and that is what will squeeze the populace of what little they have in a depression. The more money you save or don't pay out, the more you will have.
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